Part 2. How to properly charge an auto AC R134a refrigerant air conditioning system.
Part 2 of “How to properly charge up an auto R134a AC system” using pressure gauge and off the shelf 12 ounce R134a refrigerant. Note about charging Liquid (can upside down) versus Vapor (can right side up): The freon can should be upright so that refrigerant “vapor” is drawn into the low side. Remember that the Low side, also known as the suction side, normally operates as a “Low Pressure Vapor” state that is drawn directly into the compressor. You don’t want to “slug” the compressor by …
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June 28th, 2009 at 11:09 am
what was the water temp of the refrigerant in the saucepan?
July 1st, 2009 at 9:13 am
My compressor failed and no oil came out how much do I put back in
July 3rd, 2009 at 5:33 am
hey great video, i also have that gen dodge ram and when the compressor isnt engaging is that a sign that it needs more freon? also what fuse number is the ac compressor on? -thaks
July 5th, 2009 at 10:03 am
You never mentioned that its advisable to also exchange the dryer/accumulator since the decasant inside can be full of moisture. Its best to replace them every two years if you want the best performance. If you opened up the system, replacement is a must.
July 6th, 2009 at 12:29 pm
I run tap water on hotest setting. Do NOT use boiling water from the stove, just real hot tap water. The water will cool off in a couple of minutes as the freon can gets very cold when it is discharging from the can into your AC system.
July 6th, 2009 at 12:34 pm
If your compressor failed, you may need to have your system “flushed” to remove any metal particulates that may have been driven into the system. This would be the case if the compressor piston borke up due to lack of oil. I cannot tell you how much oil you should add in this case. I can tell you to add the recommened amount that should be noted on a tag on the compressor after a complete “flush”
July 6th, 2009 at 12:39 pm
Well, low freon in your system would be 1 cause of the compressor not engaging. As far as fuse for the compressor, I don’t know, as this is my son’s truck and I did a complete evacuate/re-charge due to a bad shrader valve on the high side.
July 6th, 2009 at 12:43 pm
Well, I do agree that the receiver/dryer should be changed whenever the system is opened. I xhose not to do this on this particular job. I evacuated the system for a very long time and hopefully removed the bulk of any moisture in the system. But you are correct.
July 18th, 2009 at 11:23 pm
What are the Low & High valve settings when you’re vacuuming the system?
July 19th, 2009 at 9:05 pm
The Low and High valves are open during vacuum process.
July 21st, 2009 at 11:56 am
Thanks, MIke!
July 29th, 2009 at 2:50 am
Mike – I have the same truck – 99 Ram 1500 – i have found that posted 2lbs freon to be just a bit too much and had to back off on that amount for when it gets in the 90’s here in TN – how does that trucks A/C fair in 90+ degree whether?
August 1st, 2009 at 9:27 am
Dude I saw both of your clips how to a/c charge….thank you so much,you sure bit the shit out of Expert village bullshit clips.
August 6th, 2009 at 2:24 pm
i have the same gauge set. Where did you get the can fitting? After I vacuumed the system i had to remove my gauge set and use my cheap-o refill hose. I hope I didn’t get much air in there.
August 9th, 2009 at 11:39 pm
what about inverting the first can first on the high side?? and the oil for the comp? and refeon with ICE?? I’ve done this..worked for me..I used to work with r12 which was a colder freon..seems like 134a was meant to make some people very rich..
August 14th, 2009 at 8:48 am
its called purging the lines
September 9th, 2009 at 1:08 pm
for everyone watching this vid please note that you must keep the freon can upside down and rotate it as it states on the back of all the cans. the way he did it is not recommended. but the idea of putting it in hot water is pretty cool. just if you could figure out how to do that with the can upside down
September 10th, 2009 at 12:11 am
Wrong. The freon can should be upright so that refigerant “vapor” is drawn into the low side. Remember that the Low side, also known as the suction side, normally operates in a “Low Pressure Vapor” state that is drawn directly into the compressor. You don’t want to “slug” the compressor by inverting the can and adding freon in the liquid state. Sometimes it may be necessary to invert the first can for a few seconds at a time to “prime” the system with freon so that the compressor will engage.
October 9th, 2009 at 5:18 am
If you are charging to the high side liquid is fine, but you should always charge to the low side in vapour form unless you have a “controlled” means of flashing the liquid off, which in this demonstration you dont, liquid in the low side can hydraulic your compressor, and that means you need a new one!
October 9th, 2009 at 6:25 am
No, you never want to charge your system on the high side. It is called the “High” side because of the very high pressure in this line. The High side pressures are most ofen 200psi or greater. This kind of pressure can easily burst a can of Freon. Also, I am charging vapor on the Low side. The can is tilted in the pan of water, but it is still in an upright/vapor discharge position. I am aware that charging liquid into the Low side can Slug the compressor and ruin it.
October 17th, 2009 at 8:10 am
Wow, thanks Mike for a great video along with correct some really bad comments from some of these DIY, hopefully it will save us some compressors in the future!
October 17th, 2009 at 8:16 am
The only thing I’d like to add to your statement is, on some of these new model apps its becoming a must to also replace the condenser. Newer model vehicles have micro tubed condensers that are impossible to flush, if catastrophic compressor failure on anything 2000 and newer I would strongly suggest replacing the condenser along with compressor, accumulator/drier, and orifice (if applicable).
October 17th, 2009 at 8:20 am
Depending on the size of the leak you may have also lost oil, chances are it was minimum but thats a judgement call you’d have to make. Either that or flush the whole system out and start over, unless its a massive leak I wouldn’t worry to much about it.
October 17th, 2009 at 8:38 am
If “properly adapted”, if properly adapted and you use R12 in it, it would even cool better. R12 cools at lower pressures than R134, when R134 was first brought to market there were many problems with its cooling efficient, thanks to better designed a/c systems it cools as well as the old R12 systems. One reason is condenser evolved to be much more efficient than the old designs, problem is, once you get trash in them they’re hard to flush completely, newer model vehicles have to replaced.